The Custom Hat

Bold or subdued? Colourful or neutral? Durable or delicate? When you decide that you would like to have a custom hat tailored and your head size is measured, there are countless fabric choices. After consulting with my customers, I have developed some general guidelines to help select. They fall into three categories that I call the “3Ps”: personality, palette, and purpose. I’ll give some examples to illustrate.

Personality: If you have a flamboyant or outgoing personality, then perhaps you embrace a bold hat that calls attention to you. You dare to wear clothing that is avant-garde and you’re definitely not afraid to be imaginative or unconventional in your dress. This might be reflected in pattern and colour.

Palette: Colour choices can reflect your personal preferences. If you are averse to colour, then it’s likely you would veer toward a neutral or more muted shade. With a reversible bucket hat, the two fabric choices can be complementary or contrasting. Many like a solid on one side and a patterned (such as floral, striped, or plaid) on the other. The season might dictate the hues, for example darker for winter, lighter for the warmer months, autumnal for fall.

Purpose: Your might need your hat to match an outfit for a special event, in which case you might be more daring and make a one-of-a-kind choice. On the other hand, you might want an all-occasion hat that can go with just about anything and that you can wear just about anywhere. It might a smart casual look that you’re after – for grocery shopping or watching your kids play soccer on the weekend. Travel plans can influence the choice of hat. A sun destination might require something in a light colour, a lightweight fabric, and a longer brim for sun protection.

Crochet Cuties

A sister/brother duo was spotted at a provincial park campground this spring sporting crocheted hats. Like a lot of children, they have been wearing hats and caps since they were babies. This early habit has made consistent hat wearing easy and each child has a selection of many hats. The parents realized the importance of protecting their young ones’ delicate skin against harmful UV rays and regulating body temperature. Hats keep them warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer.

I chose to use a bright pink wool to crochet the girl’s brimmed Brickwork Hat. Pink is her favourite colour and she has many matching dresses, T-shirts, and hoodies in the same colour. A well-chosen chapeau can complete the look of an outfit at any age.

The little boy was attracted to his slouchy beanie, mainly because of the pom pom. Importantly, the hat fits and sits well on his head and is comfortable to wear. So much so that he wanted to wear it to sleep.

Brickwork Hat, design by The Lavender Chair, Merino Wool
Beanie, Superwash Wool and Organic Cotton with Merino Wool trim and pom pom

Double Duty Hats

Reversible bucket hat with 3″ brim in Marimekko Naatit cotton print/technical fabric

This hat was custom sewn for a woman who had been invited to a garden tour in her community. She wanted a hat fitting for the occasion, but that could also do double duty in her own garden. She chose an organic cotton print in green and cream on brown for the eye-catching side of the bucket hat and a practical water and wind-resistant technical fabric for the reverse. In addition, she requested a chin strap to prevent the hat from blowing off her head in her windy seaside garden.

The chin strap is designed to function no matter which side of the hat faces outward. 550 Paracord (nylon parachute cord) was threaded through eyelets and secured by cord stops.

I received another request for a reversible bucket hat for wear both out and about at a summer home and while boating. My out-of-town customer liked the cotton with blue daisies featured in a previous post. I e-mailed a photograph of possible fabrics to match.

A standard 2-1/4 inch brim protects the face from the sun. The chin strap secures the hat on the head while boating.
The blue cotton canvas and the white nylon Paracord gives this hat a nautical look.

Cool Cotton

Like a kid in a candy store, I’m so happy shopping in a fabric store. I love browsing and exploring the array of patterns, materials and notions. Recently I visited a favourite family-run business Gala Fabrics in Victoria, B.C. I was on the hunt for cotton to sew sun-protection hats and I left not disappointed.

I purchased a light-weight quilting cotton with blue daisies and a medium-weight patchwork cotton from Sevenberry’s Nara Homespun collection. Both were made into reversible bucket hats and a remnant of blue recycled cotton canvas lined the reverse sides.

While the fabrics I chose were suitable for spring and summer wearing, cotton fibres can be woven into heavier materials, such as velvet, corduroy, velour and flannel. On the other end of the spectrum, cotton can be loosely woven into sheer, airy gauze and voile…think bandages, mosquito nets and curtains. Cotton is versatile and popular and includes properties of breathability and durability. Downsides are that it wrinkles easily and will shrink in the wash if not pre-treated.

Batik

Batik cotton “Lysander”

Batik is the art of decorating fabric—cotton, silk, linen, rayon and hemp—using wax and dyes. The origin of batik is uncertain, but some speculate that it spread from Asia along caravan trading routes over 2,000 years ago. Batik is now found worldwide. The batiks of the pleated skirts of the Miao people tell the history of their ancestors’ migration from China to Vietnam, Thailand and Laos. Still popular today, African Mali mudcloth came from an ancient technique that used a bath of leaves and branches, followed by mud dyeing and sun drying. Pysanky Easter eggs of Ukraine are decorated with symbolic motifs, often incorporating complex geometric or floral patterns.

Reversible Bucket Hat, Batik Cotton “Acorn” with Crinkle Cotton (reverse)

Some of the best batik craftsmanship is found on the island of Java in Indonesia. In 2009, UNESCO recognized Javanese batik as a Masterpiece of Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity. Originally batik seemed a natural fit for Java with ready availability of the raw materials—cotton, beeswax and plants to provide natural dyes. A simplified explanation of batiking involves first blocking out or dotting (the Javanese word “tik” means to dot) designs on fabric with hot wax. Dye is applied and the wax resists the dye. Waxing and dyeing is repeated until the desired outcome is achieved. Then the wax is removed.

Reversible Bucket Hat, Cotton Batik “Lysander” with Recycled Canvas (reverse)

Contemporary batik can be crafted using a variety of techniques to apply wax and dyes. Tools such as wooden stamps and stencils create interesting visual effects. Different kinds of waxes and dyes, both natural and synthetic, are part of the batik artist’s kit.

Design and Printed Fabrics

There are many stunning printed fabrics from around the globe. In this post, I feature printed fabrics from the Finnish design house “Marimekko” and a homespun cotton printed with a traditional Japanese pattern from “Sevenberry”.

This hat was sewn using Berry, a cotton print by Antti Kekki (Marimekko)

When Marimekko fabrics caught my eye, I wanted to incorporate some of the large abstract prints into hats. At first, as in the hat above, I opted for a cream-coloured fabric for a subtle other side of my reversible bucket. Feeling a bit more adventurous, for the next hat, I paired a checked navy and white cotton/hemp blend with an indigo-dyed cotton sheeting printed with maple leaves.

This hat combines a large checked pattern called Taite by Fujiwo Ishimoto (Marimekko) and a collage of small maple leaves (Sevenberry)
Sevenberry Maple: Are there right and wrong sides to this cotton fabric?
I matched the “wrong” side of Maple to the “right” side of Taite
The longer brim provides shade, while the light brim interior brightens the face

Another summer hat was sewn with an unbleached cotton called Rukinlapa by Antti Kekki (Marimekko). I was deliberate in choosing where to lay and cut the pattern pieces for the hat. So, while the hat appears to have a random and abstract vibe, a large piece of this fabric displayed on a table resembles a vine climbing on a wall.

Cotton print called Rukinlapa by Antti Kekki (Marimekko) on one side with plain linen on the reverse of this bucket hat

Spring Fling

Thought I would shake up my routine. I’m passionate about making hats, but I felt it might be fun to crochet light weight cotton scarves for spring.

Although I shape or “block” most of my finished crocheted hats, the diamond mesh work in this scarf really benefited from spray blocking. I laid the scarf on a towel, sprayed it with water, then worked it into the desired rectangular shape and dimensions. After letting it dry undisturbed, I found that blocking also smoothed out stitches and nicely showed off the lace pattern.

Before blocking
After blocking

Another project I completed was a triangular cotton scarf in a crochet bobble stitch. The pattern was customized from a kerchief design by Pattern Paradise.

Flat Caps

Flat cap in wide wale corduroy

What do comic strip character Andy Capp, the late professional golfer Payne Stewart, and 1998 Canadian Winter Olympic athletes have in common? All have been seen doffing and donning a flat cap.

Worsted wool suiting is a resilient fabric for flat caps

The flat cap is a round-shaped cap where the crown is pulled forward and attached to a stiff visor or bill with a snap or stitching. It originated in England and was the cap of the working class. In 1571, an Act of the British Parliament decreed that men and boys of non-noble class were to wear a hat on Sundays and holidays or be subjected to a fine of 3 farthings per day. It was the goal of the government to stimulate domestic wool consumption. The flat cap became the hat of the working class and was commonly made of wool tweed.

Flat caps sewn in plaid linen and classic blue denim fabrics

Today the flat cap remains fashionable. Although it is often sported by older men, a flat cap suits anyone with a diamond, oval, or heart-shaped face, no matter what age or gender. Find flat caps in wool tweed, cotton, corduroy, linen and leather.

Men in Hats

From fishermen and farmers to skateboarders and hip hop artists, the bucket hat is a popular and practical choice.

Men began wearing hats in earnest as a symbol of style and protection against the elements with the advent of organized sport. As early as 1807, a dress code was established at horse races and polo tournaments for attendees at the royal enclosure at the Royal Ascot in Britain. To this day, a black or grey top hat is part of the requirement, as is a waistcoat, tie and black shoes worn with socks.

The common man’s baseball cap has its roots in the 1860s when the Boston Excelsiors wore a rounded cap with a button on top and a long bill. Today, the hats of Major League Baseball teams can be readily identified by the logo, mascot, or team’s initial on their caps. Baseball caps with their front-facing brims and panelled construction are seen just about everywhere and worn by kids, men and women.

Hats off indoors…or not?

For a long time, men’s hat etiquette was such that wearing a hat indoors was impolite in places of worship, public spaces, and private homes. While the rules have loosened over the years, it is still considered a gentlemanly courtesy to uncover your head in private spaces where people live, work, or pay a fee to enter (such as a private club or theatre). Golfers, on the 18th green at the conclusion of their round, customarily remove their caps before shaking hands with their playing partners. It is also common to tip your hat as a show of respect to another.

The newspaper cap in a brushed cotton/polyester blend

Men’s Classic Beanie

I received a request for “a man’s black toque with a roll-up cuff”. This gave me latitude to try out a new technique. I took my lead from a design for a classic beanie by rich textures CROCHET. Rather than working top down or bottom up, the hat is constructed crocheting sideways. The finished panel is sewn together in a seam and cinched together in a loop at the top.

The yarn that I chose is a black tweed organic wool/viscose blend. In a double knitting weight, I knew that the cuff would not be too bulky. In fact, the yarn is light enough that it can be turned up once for a slouchy beanie look or twice for a closer fitting toque.

I adapted the original pattern for a wider ribbed look. The ribbing allows for a little or a lot of stretch and makes this hat almost a “one size fits all”. Although crocheted, it bears resemblance to a knitted hat. It is both versatile and classic.

The slouchy beanie from the back