Single-Ply Merino

I knitted this Flip Hat with a super bulky, single-ply, slightly felted Merino Wool with a twist.

Plying is the process of twisting two or more strands together to make one strand of yarn. When multiple strands are twisted together, they are stronger than “single-ply” yarns. A single-ply yarn is a single strand that isn’t plied with another and spinning the yarn gives it its twist. Since single-ply yarn isn’t as strong, it will break if you pull on it tightly. In other words, you need to take care when working with it.

The wide headband looks like it’s made from dreadlocks. The name of the yarn is Rasta which, in Spanish, means “dreadlock”.

The characteristics of single-ply yarn include its smooth surface, lightness and fluffy texture. With wear, the yarn will become fuzzy. Compare this with plied yarn where strands are twisted together, compress each other and the fuzziness or “halo” effect is not as noticeable. The downside is that single-ply yarn tends to pill easily. As a maker, you do not want to rip out stitches and work the yarn over and over again. As the owner of a garment made with single-ply yarn, you will want to handle it gently when wearing and washing it.

This Newsboy Hat in a crocheted herringbone stitch shows off the variegation of kettle dyed Merino Wool.

Single-ply yarns are ideal for hand dyeing. The outer surface absorbs dye more easily. During the making or wearing of the garment, fibres slide across each other, unwind and twist to reveal the lighter inner core. It gets even more interesting when more than one dye is used. Some dyes penetrate more easily, resulting in variegation in colour, tint, and saturation. Malabrigo, the producer of the yarn featured, says on their website https://malabrigoyarn.com/yarns/rasta, “When we dye our yarns, the same formula is used each time but every batch of yarn may vary. The differences from one dye lot to another can be very subtle, or extremely noticeable, specially on variegated yarns.”

“Supersized” Yarns

I crocheted a blanket using a very thick, cozy yarn of acrylic and wool. This choice of yarn was intended to give the blanket the feel and warmth of wool, but also to be easy care—machine washable and dryer friendly. A couple of leftover balls got me working and playing again with supersized yarns.

Bulky or chunky yarns are thicker than the common worsted weight yarns. Super bulky yarns are even thicker. Projects made with these yarns crochet or knit up with large hooks or needles and work up quickly. The heavier weight yarns are suitable for blankets, chunky sweaters and snuggly accessories. Stitches are easy to see and stand out, as in the herringbone hats featured.

In the photo above, a very different look can be achieved using the same herringbone crochet stitch but with a different super bulky rustic wool. A braid-like edge finishes the hat to frame the face.

With a grizzly bear brown wool/alpaca bouclé, I had fun crocheting this bear beanie complete with ears. The yarn is super soft and squishy.

Hats Off to You

Dunbar Holiday Craft Fair

My 2024 holiday craft market season culminated at the Dunbar Community Centre in Vancouver. It was well attended and the shoppers were the discerning kind who appreciated handmade goods. Along with them, I admired the imagination, creativity and diversity of the other artisans present.

I want to take this opportunity to thank a few exceptional people who have supported me this year. You might recognize my models, Coco and Elaine. Terry works in the background reviewing and editing each blog post before it gets published. Coco, Elaine and Terry have also helped me out at markets. Steve and Russel have made guest appearances on my blog to show that men can wear Hats by Tracy J too. Thanks also to Marion who, not only sells my hats at her women’s clothing boutique, tenth&proper, but also shares nuggets of retail knowledge with me.

Anita says of her new hat, “One hat per year. This one is made with merino wool. Warm.”

I enjoy meeting new people as they try on my hats, but I especially like seeing loyal customers return. Fitting them with a new style is one of my delights. Happy Holidays to you all!

Bard & Banker Sip & Shop Holiday Market, Victoria, BC

Coordinating Hats

Brickwork Hat (inspired by a design from The Lavender Chair) and Button Beanie Flapper Hat (design of Simply Made by Erin) crocheted in 61% Cotton/12% Linen and 27% Polyamide

Two people wearing similar hats draw attention. They could be a dazzling mother and daughter, a fun father and son, romantic partners, close sisters or BFFs. 

Charmed Cloches (design by Maria Bittner) for adult and infant, Merino Wool

I think it’s a bit too cutesy when the hats are identical or matchy-matchy. Coordinating hats is another story. The hat wearers can express their individuality and personality while wearing hats that resemble each other, for example, in colour, material or style. Each can wear what suits his or her face shape, features, and complexion.

Lakeside Beanies (design by Chellie Plummer of 5 Knots North) for adult and child, Bluefaced Leicester Wool

It can be charming to see the reflection of an older person in a younger one sporting a coordinated hat, or the other way around. What’s suggested is belonging together, having fun or respecting each other. Regardless, there’s an indication of something special between two humans.

Frosty Morning (adapted from design of Susie Gourlay, Knit Natural), adult: 55% Alpaca/35% Cotton/10% Merino Wool, child: 57% Alpaca/43% Cotton

Looking for a gift? Come by Room 208, Table 20 at the Dunbar Community Centre this Saturday November 23, 2024. Tracy J will help you select the perfect hat or hats, one for you and one for someone special!

Face Shapes and Hat Styles

The Lakeside Beanie complements many face shapes and its ribbed pattern accommodates many head sizes.
Design by Chellie Plummer of 5 Knots North, 100% Bluefaced Leicester Wool

There are many face shapes – oval, round, diamond, square, long and heart. You might have characteristics that are a combination of these. Categorizing the shape of a face is not an exact science, though attempts have been made by comparing measurements of facial length, forehead, cheekbones, and jaw. The shape of your face influences not only the choice of a flattering hat, but also that of hairstyle, eyewear and men’s facial hair.

Almost any hat style works for an oval face. This beret is worn with the band halfway up the forehead with a classic tilt to one side.
Seed Stitch Beret, Design by Jessica Lombard, Wool/Alpaca/Viscose

Use a hat’s structural elements to complement your facial shape. For example, someone with a round face might suit a hat with a longer crown and a brim worn at an angle. Conversely, a long face will appear better proportioned with a short crown and a wide brim. Add visual length to short faces and vice versa. Introduce linearity to roundness and soften angular features with curves.

A Wool Tweed Bucket Hat with a shorter crown and medium brim suits the combination of a long and heart-shaped face.

I often hear two kinds of remarks. The first goes something like this. “I already have so many hats. Do I need another?” This person commonly has an oval face, the most versatile shape when it comes to rocking a multitude of styles. Another person states, “I don’t look good wearing hats, so I don’t.” This one has yet to find a hat that suits his or her specific facial shape.

I recommend fearlessly trying on many hats to find what looks and feels good on you. Take a trusted friend along. Experiment by adjusting the hat while wearing. You will recognize a great style as soon as you put it on and others will agree. Start with a classic style if you are a newbie. More seasoned hat wearers can go bolder and make a fashion statement. In any case, feel comfortable and confident to express yourself by wearing a hat!

Tracy J wears a red metal tweed beret of natural and synthetic fibres designed by Joyce Nordstrom. The beret is worn with the band above the hairline and the beret pulled low on the back of the head.

Holiday Craft Markets

The holiday craft market is a tradition for those who love handcrafted objects, ornaments, treats and treasures. It’s a seasonal and festive event where community members can gather, browse and shop local for unique goods, gifts and food. Vendors, like myself, appreciate your support and the opportunity to showcase the artisanship and design of our products.

Hats for women, men and children handcrafted by Tracy J

Hats by Tracy J will be participating at the following markets this autumn. Hope to see you this holiday season!

Made in the 604 Fall Pop-Up Market

When: Saturday and Sunday, October 26 and 27, 2024
Time: 11am-5pm
Where: The Heritage Hall
Address: 3102 Main Street, Vancouver, BC
Websitehttps://www.madeinthe604.ca/markets

Sip & Shop Holiday Market

When: Wednesday, November 13, 2024
Time: 4pm-8pm
Where: Bard & Banker
Address: 1022 Government Street, Victoria, BC
Websitebardandbanker.com/sipandshopholidayparty

Dunbar Holiday Market and Craft Fair

When: Saturday, November 23, 2024
Time: 10am-5pm
Where: Dunbar Community Centre
Address: 4747 Dunbar Street, Vancouver, BC
Websitehttps://www.dunbarcentre.org

A sample of sewn and crocheted Hats by Tracy J

Hair Scrunchies

Cotton scrunchie, hair secured with bobby pins

When big hair was in, Rommy Hunt Revson invented the scrunchie (first named the “scunchie” after Revson’s dog). Her 1986 design was inspired by the elastic waistband of sweatpants. Like a lot of fashion trends, the scrunchie waxed and waned and is now back, worn by women to hold back their hair and even on the wrist as a pop of colour. It is an interesting hair accessory that elevates a ponytail, low or high, or a messy bun.

Cotton velvet scrunchie
A scrunchie is securing this messy bun.

A good scrunchie will hold hair in place but be gentle on hair. It will not snag dry or fine hair causing breakage and it won’t leave a crease in thick, curly hair. It will grip hair securely, be lightweight, and have a stylish look.

I sewed an assortment of scrunchies.

Scrunchies can be made in a variety of materials such as silk, satin, cotton and velvet and in different sizes. For those with thin hair, a large scrunchie can be twisted into a figure 8 and the hair threaded through the two loops.

Fashion Evolution: Vintage, Retro and Modern

Pink felt hat made by Marianne Kremser c. 1955 (Senator John Heinz History Center in association with the Smithsonian Institution, Pittsburgh, PA)

I have been thinking about how popular it is today to incorporate vintage and retro styles into modern wardrobes. So, it was fun for me to read the following excerpt from the April 1933 editorial page of “The Handicrafter”, an Emile Bernat & Sons Co. publication: “With the advent of a modern style, the creative designer will appear again in our midst and the hack copyist will go.” Then I found this in Deirdre Kelly’s book, “Fashioning the Beatles: The Looks that Shook the World”. Tony Palmer wrote of the Beatles that they “were innately stylish young men who, by constantly changing their appearance (mostly to please themselves), altered the look of a generation, not once but time and time again.”

I recently sewed this top with a bias ruffle detail using contemporary Vogue Pattern V1824 and a vintage fabric

Vintage, retro, modern…what do the words mean? While clothing older than 100 years is considered antique, garments over 20 and less than 100 years might be called vintage. However, a lot of experts deem only clothing from the 1980s or before is vintage. This is because mass production of clothes largely made with synthetic fabrics began after the 1980s. Good vintage pieces would be ones made in the past with materials, patterns and techniques available at the time, and were often hand stitched. Retro clothes would be copies of vintage styles but made with current fabrics and techniques.

Bird on a Hat c. 1930 (Carnegie Museum, Pittsburgh, PA)

An advertisement by Emile Bernat & Sons Co. in the aforementioned 1933 “The Handicrafter” begins, “What better way is there for you to be in style than in wearing a garment that is knitted with your hands and designed in the current fashion?” This resonated with me since the things I sew and crochet with my own hands use age-old techniques and highlight natural fabrics and yarns.

Microwaveable Heat Pads

This microwaveable heat pad is perfect for wrapping around the neck or laying comfortably on the shoulders.

Today I digress from hats. Looking at my bins of fabric, I spotted remnant pieces too small to sew into hats. DIY microwaveable heat pads seemed to be a relatively simple and practical project to use up leftover fabric.

100% cotton was my choice since it can withstand heat. Linen with a strong tight weave is also a good pick. For some heat pads, I sewed a plain muslin pad with a separate pillow case. The muslin pad can be microwaved and the decorative pillow case, secured at one end with Velcro, can be removed and washed separately. Three pockets were created to ensure even distribution of heat.

Plain muslin pad with three pockets filled with rice
A decorative pillow case and its an inner muslin pad

I decided on rice as filler for its heat retention, ability to mould to the body, smell after heating and cost effectiveness. After some trial and error, I settled on 1-1/4 cups of rice per pocket. I set my sewing machine stitch length to 1.5 mm to keep the rice grains from slipping out of the heat pad. There are other organic filler possibilities for the microwaveable heat pad, such as crushed walnut shells, whole flax seed, and dried pinto beans. A few drops of an essential oil, dried flowers, or dried herbs can be added for scent.