Hats for Girls and Boys

Warm, soft, and easy to care for…these are some of the qualities I consider before making children’s hats. Babies especially have sensitive skin. Merino wool is soft and itch-resistant. All the hats illustrated here are crocheted from a blend of merino wool and silk which gives the finished product an extra smooth feel.

Crocheted and knitted hats are made smaller than the wearer’s head because they stretch to fit. This is called negative ease. For children, I incorporate less negative ease so that, as the head grows, the hat will still be wearable.

Some of my children’s hats are made with simple repeating stitches and tend to be gender-neutral. I most often pick colours that are lively, but not too light in colour so that dirt won’t easily show. Decorating hats with flowers, pompoms, or tassels adds a dash of personality.

Creating a Custom Hat

Thoughtful planning and consultation is the first step in building a custom woven hat. My first inquiries are around form and function. Lately, the bucket hat has been a popular choice. The style has transcended time. Most people wear it effortlessly, whether it’s dressed up or worn casually.

Where and when one envisions wearing the hat helps narrow down fabric choices. That being said, most people are aware of what they like and what looks good on them. I offer an array of fabric samples to select from. But I’m also happy to personalize a look with a shopping expedition to select a fabric, lining, and trim. An accurate head measurement is essential to ensure a proper fitting and comfortable topper.

In the hat featured, my discerning customer had already decided that she wanted a structured bucket hat with a brim longer at the front than the back. She wanted a hat with colours that would complement her cool weather jackets and coats. Looking at the fabric samples, she was immediately drawn to the colour combinations and scale of the blue plaid and its linen/cotton texture. I chose a soft, almost silky, blue fabric called Cupro (made from recycled cotton linter) to line the hat. A heavy buckram interfacing gives the brim enough stiffness to “sit on her desk” at work. I gave my customer a choice of no trim, a self-fabric band cut on the diagonal, or millinery grosgrain ribbon in navy or black. As the bucket was nearing completion, we both decided to leave the brim free of multiple lines of topstitching. Here it is, ready for wearing on crisp autumn days.

Fibrations Festival 2021

Hats by Tracy J

“Fibrations” folks know their fibres. At this outdoor event celebrating community and fibre arts, people asked me about the yarns I used to make my hats. Many recognized the softness of alpaca, the smoothness of pima cotton, and the gossamer of silk.

Despite morning rain showers, there was a steady flow of interested and interesting people who stopped by my tent. There was time for us to give attention to fitting and personalizing choice of hats. It was heartening to see someone try on a hat that made the colour of their eyes pop or one that complemented a new shawl. Happy were the grandma and granddaughter who walked away with matching denim tie-dyed headbands.

Thanks to Ryan and Bobbie who organized this 10th annual festival in Victoria and the many volunteers. Last word of gratitude goes to my sister Terry who helped the whole day, from tent setup to takedown, from showcasing hats to cataloguing sales.

Good Fibrations

Come by and see my latest hat creations on Sunday, September 19th, 2021 at Fibrations Festival. This free public outdoor event will feature fibre artists in the Fairfield community of Victoria, B.C. Find Hats by Tracy J at Tent B23, Robert J. Porter Park & Field, located behind the Fairfield Community Centre. For more information: https://www.kbnfibres.ca/fibrations

Fibrations’ Communicable Disease Plan will comply with the most recent COVID health and safety guidelines provided by the provincial government.

Inspired by Nature

I’ve been inspired by nature’s palette to crochet hats in tweedy yarns. The watery blues of sea and sky harmonize with deep forest greens. Next to each other on the colour wheel, they are serene and calming. Add in neutrals, like the grey of clouds, beige of sand, and granite of beach rocks, to sooth our senses even more.

Whether it’s a beanie or a slouch hat, a wide cuff that wraps around your crown is comfortable and stylish. Take your pick of stitches: crossed double crochet or different patterns of single and double crochet. These yarns make hats with good stitch definition and drape.

Vintage with a Twist

“I Love Lucy”, the 1950s television sitcom starred the zany comedian Lucille Ball. One of Lucy’s trademarks was her head of vivid red curls, now and then tamed by a headband topped with a bow or a flourish of fabric.

My headbands with a twist are a reminder of that bygone era. I have sewn many headbands in solid colours ranging from jewel tones to neutrals. Recently, I started exploring stretch knit fabrics with patterns, like denim tie dye and navy/white pin stripes. What’s old is new again. What’s vintage is modern!

What’s New is Old Again

What if the hat you’ve owned and cherished forever has faded and shrunk to the point that it is too small for your head now? Your family has bought you new hats and insisted you replace the old white one, but your beloved hat is hard to part with. You can’t say why. It seems to be part of your history and is more precious than a new hat could ever be.

Under these circumstances, I was asked if I would make a new hat as a surprise for this person. Uncertain of the possible outcome, I turned to Marie Kondo. A renowned tidying expert, Kondo has a philosophy and rules to simplify and organize your belongings. When it comes to sentimental items, she advises to keep the things that “spark joy”.

I thought, “Oh no, what a difficult task I have been given!” Nevertheless, with a positive attitude, I accepted photographs of the old bucket hat and a head measurement. I was able to purchase a piece of soft wash cotton denim. It will take time for sun-bleaching, laundering, and wearing to further soften and fade the fabric. I drafted pattern pieces for proper sizing and mimicked features of the treasured hat. I included the double-tiered side crown, belt-like band, belt loops, top stitching, and grommets.

I’m crossing my fingers that the new hat will find a spot in the owner’s heart. But I’ll also understand if he cannot let the old one go.

My Grandfather’s Jeans

After my last blog post, a friend asked if I wanted to upcycle an old pair of jeans found on the bottom of his pile of work clothes. I asked if he would like me to make him a hat, but he doesn’t wear hats. However, he is a new grandparent and I thought his denim could be the beginning of a baby or toddler’s reversible bucket hat. A memento from grandfather to granddaughter.

Paint spatters, oil stains, and tears riddled the pants, but I managed to find enough good-enough fabric to work with. There remained dark staining at the back of the piece cut for the hat brim. Lately, I have been intrigued with Sashiko and Boro-inspired stitching (an ancient Japanese method of visible mending), so I decided to disguise the stain with some decorative hand stitching. The stylized embroidered flowers and floral fabric give a nod to the child’s grandmother, an avid gardener. Finally, I couldn’t resist tucking in the Levis label, a reminder of the origins of this bucket.

Repurposing Jeans to Hats

I admit it felt harsh to cut into these luxury denim jeans. This pair had been well worn and loved since the owner acquired them a decade and a half ago. Some say that it is worthwhile to invest in an expensive pair of luxury jeans. The durability of higher quality denim means that they will last and not need to be replaced for a long time. The distressing and patchwork was unique and in great shape when I decided to take my shears to them and repurpose them into a newsboy cap.

I chose to sew a newsboy cap because there isn’t too much fabric to these skinny jeans. The six triangular crown panels were cut from the legs and the visor from the hip area of the pants. The fabric is 99% cotton and 1% spandex. It was fun to consider the many options for highlighting the custom finishes of the jeans. I liked the way the rip had been treated and the patch. I also incorporated the label as a reminder of where this hat came from.

Little Black Hat

Like Coco Chanel’s little black dress (LBD) published in American Vogue in 1926, the black hat can be simple, classic, and chic. The LBD crossed over from the uniforms of the working class woman (maids, telephone operators, and shopgirls) to the world of haute couture. Over time, as Vogue editors predicted, it has become “sort of a uniform for all women of taste.”

Historically, the black hat includes the aristocratic gentleman’s silk top hat, the villain’s cowboy hat in western movies, and mourning hats with netted veils. Today though, it is now accessible, fashionable, and functional for both men and women in many styles. Often it is as versatile as the little black dress and can be dressed up or down.

These two black hats were fabricated from a synthetic mesh back softshell rainwear fabric which is water and wind-resistant, yet breathable. The bucket hat and newsboy cap are lined with a polyester material in neutral stripes. The ribbon trim on the bucket hat, hand sewn in place and made from the lining fabric cut on the bias, is reminiscent of a man’s tie.