“I Love Lucy”, the 1950s television sitcom starred the zany comedian Lucille Ball. One of Lucy’s trademarks was her head of vivid red curls, now and then tamed by a headband topped with a bow or a flourish of fabric.
My headbands with a twist are a reminder of that bygone era. I have sewn many headbands in solid colours ranging from jewel tones to neutrals. Recently, I started exploring stretch knit fabrics with patterns, like denim tie dye and navy/white pin stripes. What’s old is new again. What’s vintage is modern!
What if the hat you’ve owned and cherished forever has faded and shrunk to the point that it is too small for your head now? Your family has bought you new hats and insisted you replace the old white one, but your beloved hat is hard to part with. You can’t say why. It seems to be part of your history and is more precious than a new hat could ever be.
Under these circumstances, I was asked if I would make a new hat as a surprise for this person. Uncertain of the possible outcome, I turned to Marie Kondo. A renowned tidying expert, Kondo has a philosophy and rules to simplify and organize your belongings. When it comes to sentimental items, she advises to keep the things that “spark joy”.
I thought, “Oh no, what a difficult task I have been given!” Nevertheless, with a positive attitude, I accepted photographs of the old bucket hat and a head measurement. I was able to purchase a piece of soft wash cotton denim. It will take time for sun-bleaching, laundering, and wearing to further soften and fade the fabric. I drafted pattern pieces for proper sizing and mimicked features of the treasured hat. I included the double-tiered side crown, belt-like band, belt loops, top stitching, and grommets.
I’m crossing my fingers that the new hat will find a spot in the owner’s heart. But I’ll also understand if he cannot let the old one go.
After my last blog post, a friend asked if I wanted to upcycle an old pair of jeans found on the bottom of his pile of work clothes. I asked if he would like me to make him a hat, but he doesn’t wear hats. However, he is a new grandparent and I thought his denim could be the beginning of a baby or toddler’s reversible bucket hat. A memento from grandfather to granddaughter.
Paint spatters, oil stains, and tears riddled the pants, but I managed to find enough good-enough fabric to work with. There remained dark staining at the back of the piece cut for the hat brim. Lately, I have been intrigued with Sashiko and Boro-inspired stitching (an ancient Japanese method of visible mending), so I decided to disguise the stain with some decorative hand stitching. The stylized embroidered flowers and floral fabric give a nod to the child’s grandmother, an avid gardener. Finally, I couldn’t resist tucking in the Levis label, a reminder of the origins of this bucket.
I admit it felt harsh to cut into these luxury denim jeans. This pair had been well worn and loved since the owner acquired them a decade and a half ago. Some say that it is worthwhile to invest in an expensive pair of luxury jeans. The durability of higher quality denim means that they will last and not need to be replaced for a long time. The distressing and patchwork was unique and in great shape when I decided to take my shears to them and repurpose them into a newsboy cap.
I chose to sew a newsboy cap because there isn’t too much fabric to these skinny jeans. The six triangular crown panels were cut from the legs and the visor from the hip area of the pants. The fabric is 99% cotton and 1% spandex. It was fun to consider the many options for highlighting the custom finishes of the jeans. I liked the way the rip had been treated and the patch. I also incorporated the label as a reminder of where this hat came from.
Like Coco Chanel’s little black dress (LBD) published in American Vogue in 1926, the black hat can be simple, classic, and chic. The LBD crossed over from the uniforms of the working class woman (maids, telephone operators, and shopgirls) to the world of haute couture. Over time, as Vogue editors predicted, it has become “sort of a uniform for all women of taste.”
Historically, the black hat includes the aristocratic gentleman’s silk top hat, the villain’s cowboy hat in western movies, and mourning hats with netted veils. Today though, it is now accessible, fashionable, and functional for both men and women in many styles. Often it is as versatile as the little black dress and can be dressed up or down.
These two black hats were fabricated from a synthetic mesh back softshell rainwear fabric which is water and wind-resistant, yet breathable. The bucket hat and newsboy cap are lined with a polyester material in neutral stripes. The ribbon trim on the bucket hat, hand sewn in place and made from the lining fabric cut on the bias, is reminiscent of a man’s tie.
The apple cap is a floppy newsboy hat with a soft brim. In the 1970s, a young Michael Jackson often performed on stage wearing an apple cap. His hat was made up of a series of 8 triangles sewn together. Mine is a 6-gored version, but the triangular panels still form a full “apple” shape. Pile your hair into the crown and pull on your bell bottom pants to balance out the look.
Lately, I have been designing and sewing reversible summer hats. As with my bucket hats, I like to use 100% cotton fabrics in solid colours, stripes, geometric patterns, and floral prints, mixing and matching for a modern funky reversible apple cap.
Deciding on two compatible fabrics for a reversible hat is the first step in the creation of a reversible bucket hat. Preshrinking washable natural fabrics allows shrinkage to happen before construction. The completed hat can then be washed rather than dry cleaned. The choice of interfacing fabric(s) will determine the weight and structure of the hat and stiffness of its brim. Sharp shears and a good steam iron are essential.
Reversible bucket hat in progress
This hat was sewn from blue cotton denim and plaid Viyella (a washable cotton and wool blend) fabrics. From each piece of fabric, three pattern pieces were cut: a top, a crown, and a brim. Precision is required in cutting and sewing the pieces together for a proper fit and an attractive finished look. I chose to centre-align my favourite part of the plaid pattern and match the plaid on all three pieces as much as I could. The fabrics allowed me latitude in choosing contrasting colours of thread for the topstitching.
I enjoyed sewing this reversible bucket hat, which really is two quite different hats in one.
“Forecast for Metro Vancouver: Cloudy with 60% chance of showers. Winds SE 40 kilometres per hour, gusting to 60, except gusting to 80 near the Straight of Georgia near noon. High 12. UV index 1 or low. Low 5.”
Environment Canada’s Weather Phone
On the British Columbia Coast, we can experience sunshine, clouds, showers, rain, and even wet snow as winter turns to spring. We tend toward active lifestyles and, in March, how many of us don’t check the forecast before a golf game or a beach walk? Do we don our insulated jackets, layers of fleece, and waterproof pants? Which hat is the best one to wear?
I crocheted these cloches inspired by Knit Natural Susie Gourley’s design called “Frosty Morning”. I adapted the pattern for a yarn made from a “blow yarn” where fibres of baby alpaca and merino wool are blown into a polyamide tube. The result is a cloche that is very light and airy, yet still warm. The brim is wider at the front and tapers at the back. I embraced a palette of colours from sunshine yellow to sky blue and dressed up some of the cloches with flowers to usher in spring.
Is colourful clothing just for babies and children?
Have a look in your closet and check out what colours prevail. My wardrobe gravitates toward black. Black has been considered stylish, serious, and elegant, as well as slimming. Grey is a neutral that often signals maturity and tranquility; it doesn’t call attention to you. Some say navy blue is a colour of confidence and reliability and is the colour to wear to a job interview. Blue is also often seen in working uniforms.
Lakeside Beanie, design by 5 Knots North
Merino Wool, Cotton, Polyamide
This month of Valentine’s Day, let’s consider some other colours. The vibrant colour of red will most certainly draw attention and it is a colour of energy, passion, and power. Bright pink is often thought as a little girl’s colour, but different shades of pink can be flirty, romantic, or calming. Below, the “Summer Slouch Beanie”, a pattern designed by Simply Made by Erin, shows variegated pinks in a mix of wool, silk, and alpaca.
I want to show you the effect different yarns—their colours and patterns—can have on the look of a hat. In the design world, the term colourway is used to describe a colour or combination of colours applied to yarn, cloth, paper, and wallpaper. When it comes to yarn, the fibres can be dyed and patterned resulting in a finished piece that is variegated, striped, or tweedy. Or it may have an ombré or heather look, like the Aleway Hat below.
Aleway Hat, Merino Wool/Cotton/Polyamide, Design by Kristina Olson
Companies use catchy or poetic names, such as “painterly”, “ruby slippers”, or “steel cut oats” that not only hint at the colour, but also entice buyers to make a purchase.
These hats (variations of the Aleway Hat) were crocheted using a blend of silk, merino wool, and nylon. Although the yarn colours were identified simply as “camo” and “greys”, I thought that their colourways might have been more descriptive, since camo reminds me of uniforms on the battlefield and greys ceremonial uniforms.
Hats by Tracy J 